Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication – or so the saying goes. But in the world of haute horlogerie, creating a time-only watch that truly stands out is anything but simple. Enter the Petermann Bédat Reference 1825, the indie brand’s bold take on the classic three-hand watch. But here’s where it gets controversial: can a watch with just hours, minutes, and seconds really justify a CHF 75,000 price tag? Let’s dive in and find out.
Petermann Bédat, the brainchild of Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, is an independent watchmaking brand nestled in Renens, near Lausanne, Switzerland. The duo, who met at the prestigious Geneva Watchmaking School, honed their craft at renowned houses like A. Lange & Söhne, Harry Winston, and Andersen Genève, and even restored vintage timepieces before striking out on their own. Their first two models—the 1967 Deadbeat Seconds and the 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph—garnered acclaim for their elegant designs and commitment to traditional craftsmanship. And this is the part most people miss: their latest creation, the Reference 1825, isn’t just a simpler watch; it’s a masterclass in refinement and detail.
At first glance, the Reference 1825 might seem straightforward—a three-hand, time-only watch. But simplicity, in this case, is deceiving. The devil truly is in the details. Take the dial, for instance. It’s the brand’s first non-openworked design, a sector dial with a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The star of the show? A mesmerizing shade of green achieved through translucent grand feu enamel on a white gold base. Here’s the kicker: despite using a single enamel color, the dial’s visual complexity is amplified by laser-engraved, textured surfaces and varying depths, creating a multi-dimensional effect that’s nothing short of breathtaking.
Housed in a 38mm rose gold case, the watch borrows design cues from their split-second chronograph but with a sleeker 10.15mm profile. The lugs are individually soldered, the bezel concave, and the crystal slightly raised—details that scream craftsmanship. Flip it over, and you’re greeted by the in-house calibre 233, visible through a sapphire caseback secured by six screws. While the keyless works and escapement are familiar, the movement is entirely new, boasting a redesigned gear train and architecture.
The finishing is where Petermann Bédat truly shines. Broad Geneva stripes, wide bevelling, internal angles, and mirror-polished steel parts are just the beginning. The wheels are crafted in gold, and the barrel bridge is engraved with the brand’s Renens origins. But here’s a thought-provoking detail: the swan-neck regulator is purely decorative, raising the question—is it form over function, or a nod to traditional watchmaking aesthetics?
Paired with an alligator leather strap and a pin buckle, the Reference 1825 is limited to 200 pieces over four years. Preorders are open for the first two years, with deliveries starting in 2026. So, here’s the question: Is this watch worth its price tag? Or is it a masterpiece reserved for the most discerning collectors? Let us know in the comments—we’d love to hear your take!
