Imagine a place where ancient history meets modern innovation, where the serene beauty of a Greek island is preserved through cutting-edge sustainability efforts. This is Astypalea, a tiny, butterfly-shaped gem in the Aegean Sea with a population of just 1,400. But here's where it gets controversial: while other Greek islands struggle with overtourism, Astypalea is taking a bold stand to remain unspoiled, embracing electric vehicles (EVs) and renewable energy in a way that’s both inspiring and, to some, radical. Could this be the future of island tourism? Let’s dive in.
Astypalea is the epitome of a relaxing getaway. With its crystal-clear beaches, delectable seafood, and a picturesque castle overlooking a traditional whitewashed town, it’s a traveler’s dream. Unlike its more developed neighbors like Rhodes and Kos, Astypalea retains a laid-back charm that feels like stepping back in time. When I visited in June, the island’s tranquility was palpable, a stark contrast to the bustling tourist hubs nearby.
One of the most striking features of Astypalea’s capital, or Chora, is its narrow lanes. Some are so small that donkeys still carry construction tools to inaccessible sites. But what truly stands out is the fleet of electric minibuses, part of the AstyBus initiative—a rarity in the Greek islands. This isn’t just a quirky addition; it’s part of a grand experiment to transform Astypalea into a "smart and sustainable island." And this is the part most people miss: it’s a partnership between the Greek government and Volkswagen, aiming to replace combustion-engine vehicles with EVs and shift the island to renewable energy. Is this the blueprint for sustainable tourism, or an idealistic dream? The debate is open.
To truly appreciate Astypalea, start with its history. The 15th-century Venetian castle, perched high above the Chora, offers breathtaking views and a glimpse into the island’s Roman and Byzantine past. From there, wander down to the eight red-roofed windmills, originally built in the 13th and 14th centuries to mill grain. At the foot of the hill lies the Archaeological Museum, a small but captivating treasure trove of artifacts spanning from prehistory to the Middle Ages.
The AstyBus made exploring the island a breeze. On particularly hot days, I’d hop on the bus to navigate the Chora’s winding streets, then venture further afield. My first stop was Maltezana, a charming village just a 20-minute ride away. Here, the Agios Dimitrios church, with its traditional blue-and-white exterior and lavishly decorated interior, is a must-see. Nearby, a narrow beach with shallow, clear waters provided the perfect spot to unwind after a morning of sightseeing.
Over the next few days, I used the AstyBus to visit more beaches: Schinonta, a quiet bay near Maltezana, and Livadi, a tree-lined haven just over the hill from the Chora. Each beach had its own charm, with a few seaside restaurants offering fresh catches and local specialties.
But here’s where it gets even more intriguing: the sustainability efforts don’t stop at EVs. A hybrid power station is under construction, set to cover over 50% of the island’s energy needs during the summer, with wind generation in the works. Mayor Nikolaos Komineas is also tackling plastic waste by making tap water safe to drink and encouraging hotels to provide reusable water bottles. "By 2027 or early 2028, all these new infrastructures will be in place," he told CNBC. Ambitious? Absolutely. Achievable? Only time will tell.
Eager to explore beyond the AstyBus routes, I rented a VW ID.3 EV through the AstyGO app to visit Vatses, a remote beach on the island’s left-hand wing. The app process was a bit cumbersome—requiring a reboot to start the car and featuring Greek-only dashboard instructions—but the drive, though challenging, was worth it. The unsealed road and narrow track with a steep drop were not for the faint-hearted, but Vatses was a slice of paradise: a wide, sandy bay framed by rocky cliffs, with a cafe serving Greek salads and cocktails. However, my return journey hit a snag. After hours at the beach, I was logged out of the AstyGO app, and without 5G signal, I couldn’t access the car. Thankfully, the cafe’s Wi-Fi saved the day, and I made it back to the Chora—even sharing the road with a goat!
Back in town, I indulged in an al fresco dinner at Navagos, savoring modern Greek tapas like locally made sausages and slow-cooked chickpeas with lemon sauce. For dessert, Glykia, a cozy cafe up the hill, became my go-to spot. Even in June, Astypalea felt like a hidden gem, with one longtime visitor comparing it to "Santorini 20 years ago."
And this is where the controversy deepens. While Santorini, just 100km west, grapples with over 3 million visitors annually—a situation its mayor calls "unbearable"—Astypalea welcomes a mere 32,000 to 36,000 tourists a year. Last year, the local government rejected a proposal to build 200 villas, prioritizing nature over development. "We don’t want a crowded island," the mayor declared. "We want to keep the nature as it is."
So, here’s the question: Can Astypalea’s model of balanced tourism and sustainability be replicated elsewhere, or is it a one-of-a-kind experiment? Is it possible to preserve paradise in an era of mass tourism? Share your thoughts in the comments—I’d love to hear your take on this island’s bold vision for the future.
